Leaving Zaragoza behind, we set our sights on Pamplona. This leg of the journey felt different—not just because of the destination, but because of the significance of the date. It was our wedding anniversary, and we’d decided to mark the occasion in style. For once, the van took a back seat as we booked ourselves a stay at the charming Hotel Maisonnave, right in the heart of Pamplona.
The drive to Pamplona was one of those journeys where the road itself is part of the adventure. Spain’s roads are a dream to drive on—smooth, well-maintained, and with plenty of spots to pull over and stretch your legs. It’s incredible to wonder how much these roads cost. There’s a feat of engineering around every corner. And, 5 years ago, there would’ve been tolls every hour. Now, deliciously free driving.
Mary kept the Hemingway quotes coming, flipping through The Sun Also Rises as I focused on navigating. “You know, Kevin,” she said at one point, “this trip is turning into our own little Hemingway novel.” I wasn’t sure if she meant the adventure or the amount of wine we’d been drinking lately, but either way, I took it as a compliment! Ernest Hemingway is one of the reasons we are drawn to this wonderful country btw. Our favourite author.
Pamplona and the Anniversary Splurge
Arriving in Pamplona, we immediately felt the buzz of the city. Even though the San Fermín festival wasn’t in full swing, there was an undercurrent of excitement in the air. We parked up on the outskirts and made our way to the Hotel Maisonnave. Stepping into the lobby felt like stepping into another world—clean sheets, fluffy towels, and the promise of someone else doing the cooking for a change. It was a right treat.
After settling in, we did something we hadn’t done in weeks: proper laundry. I’ll admit, there’s a special kind of joy in seeing your socks come out fresh and fluffy instead of smelling like they’ve been in the cheese drawer for a month. Expensive but hey ho.
Dinner that night was unforgettable. We treated ourselves to a meal at one of Pamplona’s historic restaurants, indulging in local specialties like Navarran lamb and thick slices of “txistorra” sausage. Over dessert—a creamy flan that melted in your mouth—we raised our glasses to 35 years of marriage and the adventures still ahead of us. Mary teared up, and I’ll admit, my eyes might have gotten a bit misty too.
A Hemingway Pilgrimage
The next day was all about retracing Hemingway’s footsteps. We visited the historic Café Iruña, where the man himself used to sit and scribble away. Mary insisted on snapping a photo of me with Hemingway’s statue, which now resides in the café. “You’ve got the same rugged charm,” she joked. I’m not sure if she was serious, but I’ll take the compliment.
We spent the afternoon wandering through Pamplona’s narrow streets, soaking up the history and atmosphere. Every corner seemed to hold a story—whether it was a bar Hemingway had frequented or a shop selling San Fermín memorabilia.
The Bull Run: From a Safe Distance
Our anniversary trip wouldn’t have been complete without witnessing Pamplona’s most famous event: the running of the bulls. Now, let me be clear—we had no intention of joining the chaos, but we did manage to snag a spot on a balcony overlooking the route. Watching the spectacle from above was both thrilling and slightly ridiculous. It’s pandemonium.
The runners—dressed in their traditional white outfits with red sashes—ranged from athletic daredevils to wide-eyed drunken tourists who clearly hadn’t thought things through. The bulls charged through the streets with a mix of terror, elegance and sheer power, and I couldn’t help but wonder what Hemingway would have made of the GoPros strapped to some of the runners’ heads.
Mary spent most of the run clutching my arm and alternating between gasps and laughter. “Did you see that one guy trip?” she said, wide-eyed. “He’s going to have a story to tell, if he survives!”
When it was over, the crowd erupted into cheers and applause. There’s something contagious about the energy of the event, even if you’re just a spectator. As we made our way back to the hotel, we couldn’t stop talking about what we’d seen. It was one of those experiences that sticks with you, equal parts exhilarating and quite absurd. We’re sure it’s all alcohol-induced. Has to be. There’s also an element of cruelty to it all too which I’m sure we’ll discuss on the next leg.
Reflections on Pamplona
Pamplona gave us exactly what we needed—a mix of adventure, history, and a touch of luxury to mark our anniversary. As we packed up the next morning and prepared to hit the road again, we both had the feeling of utter happiness from a long and happy marriage. Thirty-five years is a long time, but trips like this reminds us why we’ve made it work.
Next stop: the Basque coast and the culinary wonders of San Sebastián. But that’s a story for another day.
