The Spanish We Should’ve Learned Before Driving the Costa da Morte

We should have known the Costa da Morte would push us around a little. The name alone—“Coast of Death”—was a pretty good clue. But after surviving Finisterre’s relentless wind and an unfortunate barnacle-related incident, we figured we were ready for anything. We were wrong. It started in Muxía, a tiny coastal town with waves that […]

The Rías Baixas & a Vineyard Tour 

We didn’t mean to end up in wine country. Not in the way people plan for it, at least. No careful itinerary, no list of must-visit wineries, no pretentious dreams of swirling glasses and nodding knowingly.  It happened because of a wrong turn.  One minute we were following the coast, the next we were rolling […]

The Finisterre Experience: The End of the World 

We weren’t even sure we wanted to go. Finisterre, the so-called “end of the world,” felt like one of those places you visit because you’re supposed to, not because you actually care. A tick-the-box kind of stop. But when you’re already drifting along the coast, when the Atlantic keeps pulling you west, you eventually run […]

A Beachside Stay in Carnota

I don’t know why we nearly skipped Carnota. It was just a name on the map, a maybe-stop if we had time, if the weather was good, if the van didn’t make any weird noises that day. But somehow, we ended up here. And then, we didn’t leave. Carnota Beach is huge. Not just “oh, […]

The Rainy Day in Ortigueira

The drive to Ortigueira started off well enough. The road hugged the coastline, offering up stunning views of the sea, dramatic cliffs, and the occasional lighthouse standing defiantly against the elements. But as we got closer, the sky darkened, and before we knew it, the rain had arrived.  And not just a light drizzle—the full […]

Playa de la Catedrales & a Night in Viveiro

The sun was out in full force, the roads empty enough to make me feel like a rally driver, and—miracle of miracles—Mary wasn’t giving me the usual side-eye grip of terror. Small wins.  Playa de las Catedrales. Big name, bigger reputation. The kind of place travel blogs love to scream about. Rock formations so dramatic […]

Madrid and the Unexpected Wine Encounter 

Madrid was loud, fast, and exhausting. We’d spent weeks in the quiet of northern Spain, where the biggest decision of the day was where to park the van or whether we fancied another coffee. And then suddenly—bam—city life.  We weren’t ready.  But we couldn’t not stop. It’s Madrid. We gave ourselves one day.  Doing Madrid […]

Inland Adventures and Unexpected Discoveries through the Heart of Spain

Swapping the salty sea air for dry, rolling plains, we turned our backs on the coast and aimed straight for the heart of Spain.  The landscape changed almost instantly. The wild cliffs and crashing waves faded into long stretches of golden fields, sleepy villages, and empty roads that stretched on forever. There was something deeply […]

On the Road to Foz: A Curious Campsite and Coastal Charm

Leaving Cudillero behind, we set off towards Foz, a small coastal town that looked like the perfect place to do a whole lot of nothing for a day or two. The drive was one of those effortless ones where the scenery takes over, and you barely notice the miles slipping by.  The northern coast of […]

A Short Drive to Cudillero: A Tale of Fishing Fumbles

We rolled into Cudillero mid-afternoon, the van tilted at an angle that made me a bit uneasy, but we were parked, and that was good enough. The place was straight out of a postcard. Colourful houses stacked up the hillside, a harbour full of fishing boats bobbing around, and the smell of grilled fish hanging […]